Detailing the exterior The FrontĪt the front I stuffed up the measurements on the hull sides so I will need to fill the gap around the prow with some more cardboard. I also like the look of the layers as it helped break up the flat side and it also looks more like planks (Photo 7). I wanted to make them a bit sturdier so I decided to layer the thin card, with each layer smaller than the last. I used PVA to glue it all together and more PVA in the joints once the glue had set. In Photo 6 you can see how the different layers are glued together and the reinforcing that has been added. The Sections Side view showing Hull construction technique As you can see from Photo 5 I went a bit crooked on some of them! Also you can see the hatch that I made from some plastic mesh that I had, (I think it’s from an old 1/35th model) and the edges are from 0.5mm plastic card.Īlso the rear quarter and front bow have been glued onto the model. I got out my dremel and scribed the deck so it looks like there are planks and not just continuous strips of wood. Decking Details Initial Hull Assembly complete
The decorative parts are made from thin card and the details cut out with a modelling knife (Photo 4). The front piece was made from 5mm balsa wood and I copied it from the design but made it as bit taller. The diagram was a bit confusing for the rear before I realised there was 2 pieces! After I glued those together I used some modelling putty to try and smooth the gaps.
Front And Rear Parts Preparing the Bow & Stern details You can also see the recesses for the doors and the details on the steps (Photo 3). The bulkheads were slightly lower than the plans as I had to allow for the thicker foamboard I used for the hull sections. Initial Assembly AND Painting! The Bulkheads I used foamboard off cuts to help reinforce the joints. I’ve also glued the bulkheads on to the hull sections and added some reinforcing. I also used the off cuts for the steps down to the doors. I also gave it a light sand to add a bit more texture to the wood grain. The card is pretty thin and easy to cut and the detail is good. I measured it using the original templates and cut it up using some scissors. Preparing the Main Deck & Cabin Doorway Plasticard Deck I also decided to make the doors slightly lower than the deck so I had to cut some steps out of the foamboard. I did this because I wanted the mast to be removable for carrying. The bottom part I glued to the base section. I cut them up and used part of the tubes in the hole in each deck section. To hold up the masts I used a couple of old plastic tubes that the Exacto knife blades come in. Photo 1 is the initial deck that I cut out using the templates and a Eureka 28mm figure for comparison. Preparing the main hull The Main Hull Sections
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This pirate ship is based on the model by Gary Chalk from Wargames Illustrated Magazine (#138), “ How to scratchbuild Brigantines from card and wood“, it was also available on the Wargames Foundry website as a PDF download (but now does not appear to be available any longer). Kieran originally published this article on his 6mm Wargaming website in 2008, but as that website is not necessarily the best place for an article about 28mm figures and scratch building a 28mm scale Pirate Ship I’ve decided to host Kieran’s article here to hopefully give it a wider audience!
Avast! Ye Lubbers and Bilge Rats! Be here the means and way to use the contents of ye bung hole to build ye very owne brigantine pirate ship! Arrr!Ī while ago one of my main gaming opponents, and Auckland Wargaming Club member, Kieran Mahony built himself a Pirate Ship for use with 28mm Pirate Figures playing GW’s “ Legends Of The High Seas” (LOTHS) rules.
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